The Tesla Coil is Hackaday's favorite-just try to search in the archive and see the number of results you get for all types of cool projects. [mircemk] added to this list with his extremely simple Tesla coil with only 3 components. But be aware-most Tesla coil designs can be dangerous and should be handled with care-especially this one. It is directly connected to the 220 V mains power supply. If you touch any exposed conductive part on the primary side, "it will not only kill you, but it will also hurt you throughout your death." Ensuring that there is an ELCB on the supply line will ensure that this does not happen.
Guessing the circuit is straightforward with no prizes. It can be built with components located around a typical hacker's lair. Since the coil operates directly at 220 V, [mircemk] uses a pair of fluorescent lamp ballasts (chokes) to limit the current flow. If the ballast is difficult to buy, you can use an incandescent lamp instead. The "spark gap" function is accomplished by a modified doorbell or 220 V relay. This repeatedly charges the capacitor and connects it to the primary coil, thereby establishing a resonant current between them. The rest is what you expect to see in any Tesla coil. A high-rated voltage capacitor and a few turns of thick copper wire form the primary LC oscillator resonant circuit, while the secondary is about 1,000 turns of thinner copper wire. Depending on the exact specification of the wire used, the number of turns, and the diameter of the coil, you may need to experiment with the value of the capacitor to obtain the most charged output.
If you have to look for one of the advantages of this circuit, it is that apart from the doorbell/relay, there are not too many possible failures in the components, making it a very powerful and durable solution. If you prefer to build something less dangerous, check out our extensive selection of Tesla coil projects over the years.
Okay, so who else has to look up ELCB to find out that you have been using them, but now how are they usually mentioned in your area?
Very good building. It seems to be more stable than the last output I saw with similar settings. It may be due to the current limit and the relay terminals are not melted.
Same Here. They have been called RCDs. The more you know...
Excerpted from : "Earth Leakage Circuit Breaker (ELCB) is a safety device used in electrical devices with high ground impedance to prevent electric shocks. It detects tiny stray voltages on the metal shells of electrical devices and detects Interrupt the circuit at dangerous voltages. Once widely used, recent installations have switched to using residual current devices (RCD, RCCB or GFCI), which directly detect leakage currents."
In Minecraft, we call these ground fault circuit breakers (GFCI) or more simply ground fault circuit breakers (GFI).
1. Leakage Circuit Breaker-Wikipedia
ELCB is definitely not what you want here. From the Wikipedia article you linked to: "Voltage-sensing ELCB does not sense fault current from a live body to any other grounded body." From https://cselectric.co.in/blog/difference-mcb-mccb-rccb- elcb/: "ELCB works based on ground leakage current. These devices measure the voltage on the ground conductor; if the voltage is not zero, it indicates that there is a current leaking to the ground." Since the ELCB detects voltage, it does not rely solely on the line and the neutral line Tripping due to the current difference between them; so it cannot protect people from the current between the line and the ground connection, except for the one tied to the panel. What is needed is GFCI or RCCB-it may be the former. As far as I can see, the trip current of RCCB is much higher than that of GFCI.
Well, actually, GFCI is not helpful. GFCI passes both the thermal conductor and the neutral conductor through a two-wire wound relay, which only senses the current difference between outflow and return. In principle, any current in the circuit to ground bypasses the correct return path, so the current through the hot side is more leaking than the return side. But because the secondary of the Tesla coil described here is isolated from the primary, and because the side of the secondary is grounded, the current through you to the ground will only complete the secondary circuit, and the current through the primary side will all return. Sex line.
By the way, the same applies when troubleshooting thermal enclosure circuits with an isolation transformer plugged into a GFCI-equipped socket. The isolation transformer isolates any fault current in the device under test from the GFCI.
Tesla coils operate on radio frequencies, so any GFCI operation may exceed its capabilities or cause trouble. Of course, new homes with forced arc fault (AFCI) circuit breakers may have problems. There are many reasons for these inherently annoying trips, including the HAM radio.
Here we call them FID, I don't know what the shortcut is.
Well, it is not AFCI. These costs are an order of magnitude higher than CB, and increasingly require manufacturing "fuse boxes" cost thousands of dollars. The term is arc fault circuit breaker. Old-style thermostats and line-powered Tesla coils in irons, heaters, etc. will trip. I have an imported "Dremel" tool that can tear off AM bands statically, and it may trip up one.
The hook is up to 220 ??? You might as well use...1.21 gigawatts... and feed it to a huge superconductor to create a stable traveling worm... "You know... the ring... the side..." – Jack O'Neal SG1
The classic Tesla coil uses a neon transformer to increase the voltage to about 6kV, usually when the current will kill you immediately, feed it to a DIY foil capacitor (or in rare cases to the Leiden tank), and then Through the spark gap to the primary coil. This version here skips the neon light transformer and basically replaces the spark gap with a self-breaking relay.
Thermionic valve variants sometimes (usually based on GU81) are usually powered by a step-up transformer, as they require a voltage of about 1-2kV to operate at the appropriate power. DRSSTC also often supplies power directly from the grid...
I have seen an OTG (off-grid (directly powered through a rectifier bridge)) thermionic tube headphone amplifier, which has absolutely no galvanic isolation at any time. There is not even a speaker transformer. And it does not have a fuse, because according to some audio voodoo experts, the fuse will "degrade the sound quality"...
I have seen a tube-based OTL headphone amplifier for electrostatic headphones without galvanic isolation. Can't find the webpage, but that thing is closer to an electric chair than a headphone amplifier. http://quadesl.com/diyaudio/tube_headphone_amp.jpg This "normal" OTL headphone amplifier is also dangerous, because it looks good at first glance, until you realize that B comes directly from the power source, because the transformer is only for heating Power supply...not sure if the IEC socket is a fuse socket
This can generate illegal and annoying RF quantities. If you do not want Ham to track you and file an FCC complaint, please make sure that the tank frequency _and_its_harmonics_ does not fall on Ham and (or any other HF band that someone will care about, for that matter). Add capacitors and inductors to filter the power line (otherwise it will become a transmitting antenna). Or better yet, find a design that does not have broadband noise sources like spark gaps.
Considering that spark gaps are not a common component nowadays, there is a reason.
This is not just a question of spark gaps. The problem is that "damped oscillations" are essentially broadband signals. If you kick a passive LC circuit, it will initially ring at its resonant frequency, but as the amplitude decreases, the frequency also drops.
A simple Tesla coil works by repeatedly charging the primary capacitor and then dumping this energy into the primary LC circuit. Use a large diameter conductor in the primary to minimize the resistance there, which will lead to a higher Q value, resulting in longer-lasting oscillations, but inevitably, these oscillations will disappear due to the resistance, that is, damped. With each new cycle of the power supply charging the primary capacitor, the entire process repeats at the line frequency, but each "high frequency" pulse is a damped oscillation.
When radiation is allowed, this destroys a wide range of the spectrum. In the United States, I believe the FCC explicitly prohibits intentional radiation damping.
Yes, as far as I know, please correct me if I am wrong, but the FCC setting is to control and then prohibit the spark gap transmitter.
Please do not open fire in my town when I try the following: Watching TV requires a policeman or firefighter who needs radio communication to connect to WiFi Try to talk to someone from another country via amateur radio.
In fact, the EMI generated by these small Tesla coils is quite limited. Especially considering that the secondary coil and the top ring/ball/metal electrode form a series LC tuning circuit. In this setup, you need a specially wound inductor to generate HF frequencies, and a lot of power is needed to achieve any range...
The most important thing for you to use such a device is that it is not very effective as a transmitting antenna.
If your device is optimized for a certain frequency, then peak output will appear. A simple TC design that uses damped oscillations will cause vomiting of RF in the entire frequency band. Anyone tuned to near your nominal TC frequency will hear a terrible hum that is twice the frequency of your power supply because each damping pulse exceeds their operating frequency.
Please note that using actual semiconductors (or vacuum tubes, if this is your thing) to drive the primary "electronic" TC design will not have this problem, because the amplitude of the device is relatively stable, keeping the device "pitch"'
Yes, coils smaller than 400 microhenries will not produce corona effect, but will cause great radio frequency interference to AM superheterodyne receivers
It is a cross between Ruhmkorff inductor and Tesla coil. It is very suitable for spraying the entire RF spectrum with noise.
Just a Ford ignition coil, a DPDT relay and an antenna can do this
Use only primary batteries to build a safer Tesla coil! Because it all depends on the degree of impact you are looking for. If you want or need a Tesla coil that only produces 4KV or lower voltage, then just use the battery and a simple xsistorized exciter crkt. safer!
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